Moving from the On to the Off shows one thing has been most evident, while the On schedule designers have been successful in pulling in well known faces, influential editors and top writers the Off shows have definitely had a creative edge over their On counterparts. Yesterday morning the British Institute that is Betty Jackson had Alexandra Shulman, Colin McDowell and Hilary Alexander in attendance and eagerly awaiting her contribution to fashion week. She offered up a wearable commercial collection and the body con trend which has been most evident amongst the fashion week goers went relatively un-touched by Jackson who instead opted for mostly loose shapes.
Her palette was a mixed bag of neutral tones, dark colours, bright shades and prints. The show was a hit and no doubt many pieces will be snapped up…I’ll definitely be trying to get my hands on these pleated trousers, …..but much like John Rocha and many of the other On schedule shows I’ve found myself more fond of what the Off designers have had to say, in particular Reem and Ashfin Feiz.
The collection from Reem was fun, dark, gothic and strong. Beneath the texture, elaborate head dresses, feathers, lace and theatrics was a collection that screamed “notice me” and I think its safe to say that the audience sat up and took notice.
In contrast Ashfin Feiz also delighted his critics with a collection that also made a statement but in a more gentle manner. His message was more feminine in an obvious way and like the show from Unconditional the collection from Feiz would have felt right at home at NY fashion week which I suppose isn’t surprising as this collection marks Feiz’s return to London after previously showing in the Big Apple. The models glided down the runway in pretty light jersey dresses and shorts. But the x-factor of the show could be found in his use of dip dyeing which resulted in a beautiful effect!