In true London Fashion Week tradition, British institution Paul Costelloe opened this glorious week of glamour. After a speech by the new chairman of the British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman, Costelloe provided the eagerly awaiting guests a taster of 2009 London summertime.

To the sounds of Africa and sunset lighting models strutted in an array of military inspired suits, harem pants and brightly coloured dresses. Costelloe created a feel of 1940s Africa, the military, the people and the ex-pats. But his designs were thoroughly modern, with cocoon-skirted dresses and oversized collars.

Linen military inspired suits began the show, not fashion forward but beautifully tailored nonetheless. The floral harem pants, which followed, were girly yet sophisticated. Harem pants definitely look set to stay on trend for next season.

Bright fuchsia and yellow dresses really set the summer tone, the dresses were modern and the hooded dress in a swirling pattern really made a statement.

I was pleasantly surprised by Costelloe, a brand not really associated with cutting edge design, really did have some fabulous pieces. The cocoon skirted dresses were a fantastic shape; the organza mac over a black swimsuit was very glamorous. A white cape style shirt also caught my attention, a simple yet unique piece. The hooded dresses still remain my favourite pieces as they were deliciously quirky, and I have a particularly fondness for the feather jewellery sported by the models.

All in all it was a rather delightful show.