Who: Michael van der Ham
What: Digital prints in signature collage style, sumptuous silk dresses and a strong focus on separates, where two-toned trousers were layered with silk T-shirts or sheer pieces.
Highlights: Pared-down silk trousers made exciting by eclectic prints, vibrant jewel-like colours combined with soft fabrics that conveyed texture, and a sheer navy T-shirt layered over a floor-swooping silk dress that closed the show.
Lowlights: We loved it all (really).
Overall: For a collection whose show notes promised a more grungy, laid-back vibe, Michael van der Ham’s spring 2012 collection was surprisingly feminine. Fans of the London-based designer will be pleased to hear his signature patchwork prints are back for spring 2012, and they’re as pretty as you’d ever want. Vintage prints – a combination of brush strokes, confetti, feathers, and geometric patterns – appeared on every piece, more often than not mixed together, if not two at a time then three or, occasionally, a hybrid of them all. Colours came popping, from embossed brocades in turquoise to splashes of coral, silver and gold, creating a thoroughly modern approach to the vintage shapes Van der Ham is inspired by this season. Separates are key for spring, with a strong focus on two-tone, slim-cut trousers, collage print silk tees and structured jackets, each exceptionally wearable, but it was the dresses, whether small or long, that stole the show. Crepe de chines and textured silk satins carried bold prints beautifully across day dresses layered with semi-sheer chiffon ties, full-length gowns in soft shades, and other designs with asymmetrical hems or straps. It’s a beautifully feminine collection that’s grown-up and elegant, without the fussy grandeur.
Watch the video of Michael van der Ham’s spring/summer 2012 collection below: