Avsh Alom Gur’s Spring 2010 static installation was a busy affair and the fashion pack were eager to view Gur’s first solo collection since leaving the now defunct Ossie Clark earlier this year.

After a short drinks reception, the curtain was drawn back to reveal a model wearing one of Gur’s latest creations. The black and white two-piece consisted of a sleeveless, loose fitting top and high waisted, wide leg trousers. Sat on a platform like the mannequins behind her, she handed out the 2010 lookbook before wandering the crowds and posing for photographs. Gur’s decision to use a model alongside his static collection was a smart move, as it breathed life into the outfit and allowed onlookers to imagine the fluidity of the fabric used in the designer’s other pieces.

Not for the shy, the large collection was built on geometric shapes with bold prints in monochrome, orange, green and blue. Silk flowing jumpsuits and long, kaftan style one pieces made parts of this collection fit for the beach, while slash neck A line dresses took the look to elegant daywear.

The effortlessly wearable cut of Gur’s collection gave the clothes a minimalist feel, with attention being focussed on the print and embellishment. A combination of spots and stripes and distorted pattern sometimes made it feel as if you were looking at a Magic Eye (remember them?) but when seen against sheer fabric, the print was more successful, creating interesting shapes under the light.

Full of one-piece looks, the modern installment was limited in the accessories department however hats and bangles made an appearance in some cases, tying in the use of vivid print.

Most impressive was the intricate beaded embroidery featuring in some of Gur’s dresses, adding texture to simple shapes and injecting a touch of glamour to an otherwise laid-back and at times, ‘in-you-face’ collection.

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You may remember we reported a while back that there had been rumours surrounding Olivier Theyskens’ desire to leave Nina Ricci. We warned that there’s no smoke without fire, and this time it was an inferno. Yes, Theyskens left the French design house on 10th March (that’s five months before the end of his contract).

On the split, a spokesman for Nina Ricci commented:

“Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyskens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.

There’s been no word over Theyskens’ successor, although rumours were circulating over Peter Copping, Marc Jacobs’ right hand man at Louis Vuitton.

There has also been no indication to where Olivier Theyskens is going to go, whispers had suggested that he might be off to take the helm at the soon to be relaunched Schiaparelli. But these were soon ruled out.

And it isn’t just Theyskens who is on the move, it has been announced that Avsh Alom Gur has stepped down from his role as creative director at Ossie Clark. Gur is planning to focus on his own collection, leaving Ossie Clark designerless.

So it’s all change in the design houses, expect the unexpected.

[Source]

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Avsh Alom Gur is a man with a sense of humour. Strutting to a soundtrack of songs about money, his models wore dresses, catsuits and jackets with the words “Credit Crunch” in big sequin letters splashed across them. When the first dress came out, a muted pink corseted dress that flared into a huge puff ball, it seemed that we were in for a tame ride. But then came a burnt orange and green floral asymmetric dress with a puff ball sleeve padded with tulle and it was clear that Gur was having a bit of a laugh with this collection which the press release described as, “a collection resembling the mismatched wardrobe of a crazed society girl, drunk on a combination of heavy embroidery and showgirl sequins.”

But, humour aside, it was Gur’s prints that were the most impressive. A pale pink ballerina fabric adorned exaggerated party dresses with oversize crinoline skirts and frilled sleeves that dropped to the floor. The show was an exciting and light-hearted joy ride and the collection didn’t take itself too seriously. Thank God. Investment dressing was getting boring.

[Images: Catwalking.com]

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Some would argue but I think Avsh Alom Gur’s prints were the best I’d seen on London’s catwalks for Spring/Summer 09. Inspired (quite obsessively) by the chair, this was the theme running through Gur’s collection. It appeared in the accessories, the prints and his summer wedges. Firstly, the prints. The fun and bold efforts were seaside British in their light exuberance and the willowy models were almost dragged sideways by his chair earrings, their arms weighty with big bangles and hair tucked neatly away with fantastic print hair scarves!

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